13 Mesh vs. 18 Mesh Needlepoint: Which Should Beginners Choose?

Quick Answer:

Not sure whether to choose 13 mesh or 18 mesh? Most beginners will have an easier time learning on 13 mesh, but both have their place.

13 mesh has larger intersections, making it easier to see and stitch.
18 mesh creates finer detail but requires more stitches and typically more thread.
13 mesh works well with thicker threads like Milan and Silk & Ivory.
18 mesh is often stitched with finer threads like Vineyard Silk or Pepper Pot.
Neither is "better"; the right choice depends on your project and comfort level.

If a student asked me what to start with, I'd hand them a 13 mesh canvas.

If you're shopping for your first needlepoint canvas, one of the first decisions you'll run into is 13 mesh vs. 18 mesh. New stitchers often wonder if one is "better" than the other, or if they should start with the finer mesh because it looks more detailed.

My answer? If you're just getting started, I'd choose a 13 mesh canvas every time.

That doesn't mean 18 mesh is "better" or "more advanced." Both have their place, and over time you'll probably discover you enjoy stitching one more than the other. The best way to find your favorite is to try both.

If you fall in love with a design that's only available on 18 mesh? Buy it! Don't let the mesh size stop you from stitching a canvas you genuinely love.

First Things First: What Does "Mesh" Mean?

Mesh size simply refers to the number of holes per inch on your canvas.

13 mesh has larger holes and uses thicker threads.
18 mesh has smaller holes and uses finer threads, allowing for more intricate detail.

Neither is better than the other; they simply create different stitching experiences.

Why I Recommend 13 Mesh for Beginners

There are a few reasons I almost always steer beginners toward 13 mesh.

It's easier to see. The larger holes make it easier to find where your needle belongs, especially while you're still learning how needlepoint works.

It stitches faster. This matters more than people realize. Needlepoint is intentionally slow, but seeing progress keeps you motivated. Finishing a project—or at least seeing it grow—is incredibly satisfying.

It works beautifully for many projects. Some of my favorite 13 mesh projects include:

Pillows
Key fobs
Eyeglass cases
Stand-ups
Christmas stockings
Beginner canvases

13 mesh isn't "basic." It's simply versatile.

When to Stitch 18 Mesh

18 mesh offers a level of detail that's hard to achieve on larger mesh sizes. It's wonderful for:

Detailed lettering
Small ornaments
Belts
Bag charms
Decorative stitch projects
Intricate painted canvases

I've even chosen 18 mesh for some key fob designs because the extra detail really makes the artwork shine.

My Experience

Full transparency: I've only stitched one full 18 mesh project; a vintage, artistically painted Christmas stocking for my niece. It took me almost a year. Would I do another one? Maybe... If I absolutely fell in love with the canvas. But for the large projects I enjoy most (pillows, stockings, and home décor) I naturally reach for 13 mesh because it stitches more quickly.

That said, I genuinely enjoy experimenting. Right now my stash includes: a 10 mesh Ehrman tapestry pillow, vintage 12 mesh stockings, vintage 14 mesh seascapes, and brand new 13 mesh Christmas Village canvases. Trying different mesh sizes is part of the fun!

The Biggest Misconception

One thing I wish beginners knew is that 18 mesh isn't "better." Sometimes it feels like moving to a finer mesh is the "next step." It isn't. Some stitchers spend decades happily stitching mostly 13 mesh. Others love the detail of 18. Some bounce between the two depending on the project.

The goal isn't to graduate to a different mesh. The goal is to discover what you enjoy stitching.

A Word About Big Beginner Projects...

If I'm being honest, when I came back to needlepoint, my first project was a Christmas stocking. Would I recommend that? Probably not. Stockings are beautiful heirloom projects, but they're also: expensive to buy, expensive to kit, time-consuming to stitch, and often expensive to finish professionally (unless, like me, you have decades of seamstress experience - I'm a better seamstress than stitcher - it's the truth!).

If you already have experience with embroidery or cross stitch, you'll probably feel more comfortable tackling a larger project. If you're brand new to needlepoint, I'd start with something smaller that you can finish and enjoy sooner. (Do as I say, not as I did!)

When a Project Gets Hard

Every stitcher reaches a point where a project becomes frustrating. Sometimes it's the mesh. Sometimes it's the thread. Sometimes it's the design itself. Personally? If it's a rare canvas I truly love (especially one I hunted for!), I'll keep experimenting until I figure it out. I'm currently stitching a vintage stocking and it has already gone through three different thread palettes before finding one that felt right.

Heirloom projects take time. Needlepoint is meant to be slow.

But I also believe life is too short to spend months working on something that no longer brings you joy. If you've reached the point where you're dreading picking up a project, it's okay to frog it, set it aside, or even pass it along to another stitcher. There are far too many beautiful canvases waiting to be stitched to feel guilty about moving on.